It was a misty morning, dew drops were glistening on the tip of leaves. A mild morning breeze blew through the forest. The quiet murmur of leaves was interspersed by the chirping of the black tailed monkeys that jumped playfully from one branch to another, from one tree to another.
Panchhi had woken up early, way before light had begun to fill the sky. Today was the day he had been waiting for. Today he would fly far and high. The wings had been tested in the low flights around the trees. Now they were ready for the higher skies.
So many emotions filled Panchhi’s heart today. He was excited that he would take the leap, yet he was apprehensive of leaving his nest, his parents, and his friends behind. And, though he had seen the sky from his nest so often, and had loves it so much, he did never gone deep into it. He did not know what to expect.
So, Panchhi looked at his nest for one last time and spread his wings to plunge into the sky.
Initially he saw the world he knew - the clutter of leaves, the black tailed monkeys, and the lake in the middle of the trees. But as it began to fly higher up, he saw a much larger forest – so many trees and lakes that he had never seen or imagined. It was green all around.
As Panchhi kept going higher air was getting colder, but there was a freshness about it; much like the blue of the sky. And down below, the color of the land was longer green. Blue of the ocean was beginning to mix in too. Panchhi was amazed. He had never known that there existed such a big lake.
Gradually Panchhi flew into the clouds. The air was getting rarer, yet his wings were striving to reach even higher.
And then, all of a sudden, when the view was most beautiful in a riot of colors, when his wings had to make no more effort to stay afloat, Panchhi felt an urge to fly no more. Suddenly the urge to go back home, to return to his nest.
So, he descended back to a forest.
This was a different forest. Not the same where he had grown up. Yet, this forest was so similar. The leaves were a little smaller, but they were green nevertheless.
Sitting at a perched branch on the top of a tree, Panchhi now wondered what was happening. All his life he had wanted to fly in the sky and today when he was floating above the clouds, he only wanted to come back home. As a child he had been sure that flying high was his destiny. And now, he was sitting on a branch, not knowing what to do.
Sun had begun to dip in the horizon. Night was beginning to fall. Stars glistened in a distant sky. Panchhi was feeling depressed.
In that darkness of the night, Panchhi tried to imagine all the colors he had seen while he flew. And he began to realize that the colors of the skies were the same as the colors of the forest, that the brush that painted the skies painted the forest too.
Suddenly his heart filled with joy. He knew that he would build a nest next morning, and that he would fly again to the highest skies if ever he felt like. That this tree he was on was the same as any tree he had ever been on. That flying in the highest skies was the same as sitting on this perched branch.
Thursday, September 30, 2004
Letter from Malaya Bhaiya
Malaya Bhaiya wrote to me this, at a time when he himself was going through some struggle
5th October 1997
My dear Nishith,
Let me take this opportunity to wish you a very Happy Birthday in phase with the rising sun. Even though my writing (or ‘sermon’!) may have the stink (or ‘aroma’) of my own experiences, yet (or ‘therefore’, - as the case may be), the sole aim is to generate a meaningful proposition.
Each ‘Birthday’, therefore, could be meaningfully act as a milestone / landmark to determine the length and quality of the path covered and envisage the coordinates of the next milestone. It is the time to review, define and redefine parameters for yourself, in as global a perspective, as possible. ‘Success’, for instance, is often loosely (and ineptly) looked upon as how others view the events in your life. You, in turn, start looking at it from the point of view of others. It often infringes with your definitions. The outcome is chaotic and loss of peace results.
No external reward is rewarding enough. Seek the sanctum-sanctorum for true, unadulterated rewards. Let your thoughts traverse their own orbits / course, unaffected by the myriads around. Pure joy will descend upon you. And, a source of joy will radiate joy… will create more sources… more joy… and this train of joy will carry mankind to its destination, some day.
Act with alacrity, to the call from within. Though ‘noiseless’, these calls are ‘sound’ because they emerge from totality and generate a symphony. They carry the rationale they need.
The ‘literate’ knows how to read the lines. An ‘educated’, in addition, knows how to read between them. Be the educated man. The world rough and the implications are far-fetched (sometimes). Ensconce your educational base to deal with the mundane.
Knit your thoughts together. The pattern will be beautiful and serene. Let each breath of fresh air dance to this tune.
May God bless you,
Sincerely,
Malaya
5th October 1997
My dear Nishith,
Let me take this opportunity to wish you a very Happy Birthday in phase with the rising sun. Even though my writing (or ‘sermon’!) may have the stink (or ‘aroma’) of my own experiences, yet (or ‘therefore’, - as the case may be), the sole aim is to generate a meaningful proposition.
Each ‘Birthday’, therefore, could be meaningfully act as a milestone / landmark to determine the length and quality of the path covered and envisage the coordinates of the next milestone. It is the time to review, define and redefine parameters for yourself, in as global a perspective, as possible. ‘Success’, for instance, is often loosely (and ineptly) looked upon as how others view the events in your life. You, in turn, start looking at it from the point of view of others. It often infringes with your definitions. The outcome is chaotic and loss of peace results.
No external reward is rewarding enough. Seek the sanctum-sanctorum for true, unadulterated rewards. Let your thoughts traverse their own orbits / course, unaffected by the myriads around. Pure joy will descend upon you. And, a source of joy will radiate joy… will create more sources… more joy… and this train of joy will carry mankind to its destination, some day.
Act with alacrity, to the call from within. Though ‘noiseless’, these calls are ‘sound’ because they emerge from totality and generate a symphony. They carry the rationale they need.
The ‘literate’ knows how to read the lines. An ‘educated’, in addition, knows how to read between them. Be the educated man. The world rough and the implications are far-fetched (sometimes). Ensconce your educational base to deal with the mundane.
Knit your thoughts together. The pattern will be beautiful and serene. Let each breath of fresh air dance to this tune.
May God bless you,
Sincerely,
Malaya
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
She will see them too
From my dairy... had written in December 1996... Deepika insists that I let you know that this is pure fiction...
My love for clouds began this September. Before that, I never used to like the clouds. Gray clouds on the horizon always meant that kites wouldn’t fly. So a clear sky was what I liked.
This September, I was somewhat lonely and I used to go down to the park. She used to be there too. And she used to love the clouds.
She would show me the clouds in all their different shapes. Clouds that floated like bloated cotton in the air; sometimes so white and sometimes in all the different shades that a drowning sun painted the sky in.
She would tell me that the clouds were playful like a child, carelessly bouncing into each other, merrily dancing to the tunes of air. And yet, she would say, clouds hide a well of wisdom in them. Roaring they come down, but quietly they are up there again.
I started loving the clouds too, but they always belonged to her.
Then one day, she did not come. And then, she never came.
Now, winters have set in and the clouds are gone. But I know deep in my heart that the clouds will be back. And when I see them, she will see them too.
My love for clouds began this September. Before that, I never used to like the clouds. Gray clouds on the horizon always meant that kites wouldn’t fly. So a clear sky was what I liked.
This September, I was somewhat lonely and I used to go down to the park. She used to be there too. And she used to love the clouds.
She would show me the clouds in all their different shapes. Clouds that floated like bloated cotton in the air; sometimes so white and sometimes in all the different shades that a drowning sun painted the sky in.
She would tell me that the clouds were playful like a child, carelessly bouncing into each other, merrily dancing to the tunes of air. And yet, she would say, clouds hide a well of wisdom in them. Roaring they come down, but quietly they are up there again.
I started loving the clouds too, but they always belonged to her.
Then one day, she did not come. And then, she never came.
Now, winters have set in and the clouds are gone. But I know deep in my heart that the clouds will be back. And when I see them, she will see them too.
Meri Abhilaashaa
Had written this long back. Probably in 1993... This isnt me for sure though.
Abhilaashaa ke mridu panghat par
Ghadaa mujhe bhi ek bharnaa hai,
Jeevan ke is nirmal path par
Mujhko bhi aagey badhnaa hai.
Suraj chaand aur tare paanaa
Chaahta to hai har insaan,
Kya mein bhi maang loon inko nabh se
Aur kar doon sari jagati sunsaan?
Ya ban jaaoon mein woh prakhar jyoti
Jiske aadhaar par jeevan aashrit,
Jiski aabhaa se prerit ho kar
Andhakaar khud hua samarpit?
Chaahta hoon mein banoon boond
Aur gir jaaoon pyasi dharti par,
Maati mehke, panchhi chehken,
Behek uthen saare naari nar,
Khushiyon ki barsaat ho aviral
Nav jeevan kaa ullaas mile,
Khoye hue mad mast aalam mein
Mera pataa mile naa mile.
Abhilaashaa ke mridu panghat par
Ghadaa mujhe bhi ek bharnaa hai,
Jeevan ke is nirmal path par
Mujhko bhi aagey badhnaa hai.
Suraj chaand aur tare paanaa
Chaahta to hai har insaan,
Kya mein bhi maang loon inko nabh se
Aur kar doon sari jagati sunsaan?
Ya ban jaaoon mein woh prakhar jyoti
Jiske aadhaar par jeevan aashrit,
Jiski aabhaa se prerit ho kar
Andhakaar khud hua samarpit?
Chaahta hoon mein banoon boond
Aur gir jaaoon pyasi dharti par,
Maati mehke, panchhi chehken,
Behek uthen saare naari nar,
Khushiyon ki barsaat ho aviral
Nav jeevan kaa ullaas mile,
Khoye hue mad mast aalam mein
Mera pataa mile naa mile.
Saturday, September 25, 2004
Finally our drawing room looks good...
Deepika and I got my birthday gifts today.
Two bean bags – brownish grey and red. Two floor cushions – blue and green, and yellow and green. One rug in different shades of blue. A black flower vase. One basket filled with potpourri smelling of cinnamon. A violet bed sheet.
So, where I sit tonight, there is a cane lampshade behind me. My laptop is playing music from Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam. The yellow and green curtains hang infront of me. Deepika is lying on the mattress right behind me.
Deepika insists that I must tell you about the wind chime that hangs right opposite her. She loves the way air caresses the wind chime to create that tingle.
Lying scattered on the rugs are paintings we just made. Just a splashing of poster colors on pieces of paper. Colors that paint our lives today. Colors that make me want to live so much more.
Two bean bags – brownish grey and red. Two floor cushions – blue and green, and yellow and green. One rug in different shades of blue. A black flower vase. One basket filled with potpourri smelling of cinnamon. A violet bed sheet.
So, where I sit tonight, there is a cane lampshade behind me. My laptop is playing music from Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam. The yellow and green curtains hang infront of me. Deepika is lying on the mattress right behind me.
Deepika insists that I must tell you about the wind chime that hangs right opposite her. She loves the way air caresses the wind chime to create that tingle.
Lying scattered on the rugs are paintings we just made. Just a splashing of poster colors on pieces of paper. Colors that paint our lives today. Colors that make me want to live so much more.
Monday, September 20, 2004
Musing in the night
Today Vishal got the Sarod from Calcutta. It’s been a long time since I learned or played Sarod seriously. There used to be a time when I would spend hours playing the Sarod – I used to call it – playing with the Sarod. And today my heart stirred again when my java hit the strings and my nails pressed the strings to the shiny metal plate. There is a magic in Sarod. And, a magic in my playing with it. Somehow, I just seem to melt away in the music that surrounds me. I know that I have not advanced beyond a level in playing the Sarod, and that there is so much more to learn. Yet, whenever I hear the sound of my Sarod, that exact note in all its melody, I forget the world around. Ah, how much I wish I start learning Sarod again.
Of course, Sarod isn’t the best news for everyone. For one, Deepika is already feeling a little annoyed. What with all my writing and reading and TV, she could have done without another distraction for me. So, here she is, sitting by my side, surely wanting to draw my attention. It’s a different matter, of course, that her eyes draw me more than anything else in the world.
Coming back to Sarod. There is something regal about it. The polished wood, the shiny metal plate, the white skin drum. And, the sound of course. The strength with which it emanates sound, and yet in that there is a melody that is ever so sweet. It is so easy with Sarod to express absolute rage with one stroke and touching love with another. Just like Raag Darbari – strong, sweet and majestic. Like fire that rises in the midst of the night, raging as it soars towards the sky, chirping away as it burns the twigs – and like the dying embers that remind one of the cold night that surrounds once again.
Now, it’s 11:07 in the night, and Deepika’s read what I have written in the second paragraph. Might as well let her know that I really meant the last line in it.
Of course, Sarod isn’t the best news for everyone. For one, Deepika is already feeling a little annoyed. What with all my writing and reading and TV, she could have done without another distraction for me. So, here she is, sitting by my side, surely wanting to draw my attention. It’s a different matter, of course, that her eyes draw me more than anything else in the world.
Coming back to Sarod. There is something regal about it. The polished wood, the shiny metal plate, the white skin drum. And, the sound of course. The strength with which it emanates sound, and yet in that there is a melody that is ever so sweet. It is so easy with Sarod to express absolute rage with one stroke and touching love with another. Just like Raag Darbari – strong, sweet and majestic. Like fire that rises in the midst of the night, raging as it soars towards the sky, chirping away as it burns the twigs – and like the dying embers that remind one of the cold night that surrounds once again.
Now, it’s 11:07 in the night, and Deepika’s read what I have written in the second paragraph. Might as well let her know that I really meant the last line in it.
Thursday, September 16, 2004
Vision of Paradise
November 2002
Palakkad Junction, deep inside South India, is situated at the border of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Just twelve hours away from a metropolitan Bangalore, Palakkad has a rustic charm. A virgin land, untouched by modernity.
It was early in the morning when my train reached the station. I was scared that I might over sleep and miss the station, and had kept awake all night. There was nothing to look at from my window seat. The open fields filled with dancing greens and grazing cows in the day were all black now, and merged seamlessly with the sky. The compartment was full of people. All berths were taken, and there were more at the end near the toilets, where the caged yellow bulbs burned dimly, lying on their bundles of cloth. It was a cold night, and not all windows had glasses.
As the train slowed down and moved into the platform, I could hear the sounds of vendors selling morning snacks dissolve into the chaos of songs that devotees, travelling further south to Sabarimala, sang in the general compartment. At four in the morning, the sky was still dark. Those who had woken up early, rushed to water taps on the platform to wash their faces and brush their teeth. This was where I had to get off. Lazily I dragged myself out of the compartment. My shoes untied, hair crumpled. My eyes half asleep.
On the platform, I stood by till the engine whistled into gradual start; the station master waving the green flag. All the hectic morning activity of the platform came to a grinding halt, as everyone seemed to drift back into slumber. The next train would arrive only five hours later.
It was colder than I had expected. Wind blew from the scarlet skies behind the mountains covered with descending mist. The orange halogen lamps on the platform made me feel dizzy.
This was my first destination in Kerala.
I spent the day meandering through the lanes; walking by the markets. The town erupted into most of the activity by ten. Cycles and cycle rickshaws drove by in the narrow brick streets. Crowds gathered in markets that had slippery floors and the smell of freshly caught fishes. By the time sun shone in all its brightness most people went back indoors, in comfort of the shade of their slanted-roofed-houses. It was only in the evening that town came alive again.
This was a strange place, Palakkad. Its extremes of activity and inactivity seemed to be matched only by its extremes of temperatures. Without a hint, the afternoon heat quickly transformed into an evening chill.
When the sky was dark again, lights in the shops lit up. Suddenly there were people all around again.I meandered through some more lanes in the night and came back to the hotel late.
Early next morning I was on my way to Allapuzha or Aleppey. They call this place the Venice of the East. A six hour journey; and since my early morning wasn’t early enough, I reached Aleppey only at about 2 in the afternoon.
Back waters of Kerala are what tourists come here to see. There are two ways of doing that – staying in a resort by the side of the back waters and taking a boat to see the interiors. Alternately, just taking a house boat, and spending the night in the back waters. I chose the latter.After a bit of hard bargain – this doesn’t come cheap, it cost me two and a half thousand rupees – I was off to a nearby bank from where I would board my boat. Surprised faces greeted me, for it wasn’t often that somebody came here alone to stay on a houseboat.
The journey began well. It was already about four in the afternoon, and I had missed my lunch. So, I was only glad that food was served soon enough.As we moved on, I started to think if I had made the right choice – choosing the houseboat over a resort. The houseboat held its appeal in its wooden deck and the cane structure that covered the room. But, it wasn’t exactly luxurious. No lights for one. At least not the ones powered by electricity; there were some kerosene lanterns though. Then, the houseboat was not motorised – to be rowed all along. Perhaps it was a result of the hard bargain I had made – but the other way of looking at it was that this was to be a completely natural experience.
Yet, the murkiness of the water and all the weeds floating around disturbed me. I was reminded of my trip to Sunderbans a few years back. Vivid pictures of its green-blue waters and untouched beauty flashed in front of my eyes. And I felt that I was missing something. First few hours were spent in comparing the two, looking for that something exceptional. Something special. But as it happens with all things special in life, it could not be found until I stopped looking.
The sky was a little clouded. The air blew mildly. The palm groves across the waters looked black in the shadows of a setting sun. It was like a water-colour painting. Colours melting into each other ever so gently. Mist giving it the halo of a dream. I could hear the sound of oars splashing the waves, and the birds flying on their way home. And, when we passed by an island, there were children playing cricket, and girls all dressed up and going somewhere with the ladies. And, there was nothing around. The water and the boat and the islands, the trees on them, and the sky.
On the boat, I had with me three others – Babu and Shivdas, boatmen both. And Manoj, the chef.
Shivdas was about 50 years old. Grey hair betraying his age. He wore a light pink shirt, a green lungi and a white turban. And every bit of his cloth looked striking on his chocolate brown skin. Babu looked very similar too. Only, he had a more angelic smile, as his eyes shrank when his teeth showed.Both Babu and Shivdas were from nearby villages, and spoke only Malayalam. Manoj was the one who knew a little of both Hindi and English. He had worked in Bombay for a couple of years as an AC mechanic. He would get three thousand rupees a month there, but that wasn’t enough to meet his expenses. So, here he was, doing a job that gave him thirty rupees a day and tips from the tourists. Tips, I was made to believe, that were generous.
And, this did seem plausible. In this state of Kerala, God’s Own Country, there was little development beyond tourism. Most locals worked on farms, cultivating paddy and bananas and coconut, or they worked for tour operators. So, the wages were low. This, despite, or perhaps because of, a communist regime after every alternate election. But tourism did flourish here and tourists came from far and wide.
The sun was almost below the horizon when we reached in the middle of somewhere that was surrounded by water all around. It wasn’t a dark night even though clouds covered a half moon. Stars were missing. On the distant banks shone the lights in resorts, reflecting in the mirror of water underneath. There was silence all around. Only stray sounds of a motor boat passing by filtered through once in a while. November usually heralds winters, but air did not betray any signs of it. Mild breeze brought some comfort from humidity. And, the ripples it created swayed the boat in a rhythm. I lay on the deck, watching the clouds pass over the moon to allow an occasional glimpse. I loved the quiet and I loved the dim light of the lanterns that were lit now, but I hated my loneliness. And, I hated my mind for racing through so many thoughts.
I wondered about man. And I wondered about animals. And I wondered about life. And I wondered if animals are more blessed than men. Wondered if we are unhappy because we think so much; unable to just savour the moment the way life serves it. Wondered if there was a way that I could just stop thinking so much some day. And these thoughts kept me occupied till dinner was served on the deck. Keralite food turned out to be more delicious than I had expected. In fact, it was wonderful.
I lay on the deck till late in the night. Manoj saw the walkman I had and wanted to hear some songs. He sat by my side while Babu and Shivdas chatted away at the other end of the boat. Late in the night, I went into the boat-room, and tried to sleep there. Manoj had warned me about fishermen from nearby villages who came in the night to just see if they could pickup something. So, only one window of the boat could be kept open, and the night was spent battling the humidity and the mosquitoes. I hardly got any sleep. Each time I was in the middle of some dream, a mosquito would buzz in the ear.
But, mosquitoes did ensure that I was awake before dawn. I woke up a little tired and walked out on the deck. It was a lot chiller now. The clouds still covered the sky. I could not see the sun go up in the east. But the view around was beautiful. Serene. The freshness of the air, the rippling of the waves. It was all the same as it had been the evening before. And yet, it was different. My senses seemed to melt away into the beauty that surrounded me. Something inside told me that I was part of this creation, this beauty all around, and that what I saw was part of me too. Like the mosquitoes, all my disturbing thoughts had suddenly vanished.
For a while, I lay on the deck with eyes wide awake. And then, I didn’t even realise when sleep took over. Then, Manoj woke me for breakfast after a most refreshing nap I had had in a long time. It was about 8 in the morning and time to move on. Time to explore in greater depths the backwaters of Kerala.
As we moved further on, I saw some birds and saw some flowers. Flowers that I saw were mostly red. Crimson red. Some were hibiscus. And, there were greens all around. There were palm groves, and banana trees and paddy fields. And there were stray islands, small ones, dense with trees growing into each other, climbers hanging out into waters. There were small huts and villages nearby. There were fishermen in their boats with nets under the water, working for their daily catch. And, there were these small boats, Vallum. Thin and small, very similar to canoes. So thin that after one person sat in them, there was no space for anything else to fit in.
We moved on to the place where they repaired the boats. Somewhere deep inside those water alleys; it was actually like a cross-section of two water lanes. Just a shed of tin by the side of a smallish house. It was here that I finally found someone willing to lend their Vallum. As smiling faces greeted us, Manoj and I drifted into a Vallum. It was scary to start with. A slight shift in weight on either side, and we would both be in water. But, soon we just settled into the boat so well that we were one with the lake. We rowed in the water with the light wooden oars, as we waded through to the other end to buy a packet of match sticks. And, where I sat in the boat, it was below the water level. Just extend the hand a little and the hand was full of water. We waded through the water lilies and I plucked one there. This was the clearest water I had seen in the entire place yet; clear enough to be able to spot the small black fishes.
Half an hour of rowing left us tired, and yet it left me wanting for more. The lake seemed to allure me with its beauty. It screamed to me to tell me that I wanted more of it. That it wanted more of me. It urged me to take a plunge, to feel its water on my skin, to unravel its beauty, deep inside. The lake had a strange charm, mysterious and sublime; charm that I just could not resist it.
In those waters I swam like fish. I saw the pebbles at the bottom and the greens that grew on them. I saw the small black fishes float by me. And when I swam facing the sky, I saw the towering palms bowing to me; paying obeisance to the lake. I saw the clouds filter the light enough so that it would not hurt my eyes. And every splash that I made broke the silence, and yet it was the rhythm in which my soul danced.
This lake was what life was about. About getting deep inside, about taking what came on way, about absorbing the richness of the moment in its completeness. Like swimming, like flying, like dancing, like meditation. I had to dip myself in it. Surrender to it. Completely. And then, there were no boundaries, no limits.
When the body couldn’t take anymore, I was back on deck. Exhausted to the hilt. Lying on the polished wood, warmed with a now blazing sun. Eyelids battled exhaustion for a while, not willing to miss any glimpse of the beauty around, but sleep gently took over yet again.
A quiet nap later, we were travelling back towards the point where we had boarded from.
Soon, Manoj and Babu and Shivdas and the sky and the palm trees, the water lilies, the paddy fields, the dimly lit lanterns in the quiet of the night and the rippling, charming waters would all be part of memory; etched in a corner of my heart. And, I would be on a bus to Cochin; my skin a little more chocolate brown.
Palakkad Junction, deep inside South India, is situated at the border of Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Just twelve hours away from a metropolitan Bangalore, Palakkad has a rustic charm. A virgin land, untouched by modernity.
It was early in the morning when my train reached the station. I was scared that I might over sleep and miss the station, and had kept awake all night. There was nothing to look at from my window seat. The open fields filled with dancing greens and grazing cows in the day were all black now, and merged seamlessly with the sky. The compartment was full of people. All berths were taken, and there were more at the end near the toilets, where the caged yellow bulbs burned dimly, lying on their bundles of cloth. It was a cold night, and not all windows had glasses.
As the train slowed down and moved into the platform, I could hear the sounds of vendors selling morning snacks dissolve into the chaos of songs that devotees, travelling further south to Sabarimala, sang in the general compartment. At four in the morning, the sky was still dark. Those who had woken up early, rushed to water taps on the platform to wash their faces and brush their teeth. This was where I had to get off. Lazily I dragged myself out of the compartment. My shoes untied, hair crumpled. My eyes half asleep.
On the platform, I stood by till the engine whistled into gradual start; the station master waving the green flag. All the hectic morning activity of the platform came to a grinding halt, as everyone seemed to drift back into slumber. The next train would arrive only five hours later.
It was colder than I had expected. Wind blew from the scarlet skies behind the mountains covered with descending mist. The orange halogen lamps on the platform made me feel dizzy.
This was my first destination in Kerala.
I spent the day meandering through the lanes; walking by the markets. The town erupted into most of the activity by ten. Cycles and cycle rickshaws drove by in the narrow brick streets. Crowds gathered in markets that had slippery floors and the smell of freshly caught fishes. By the time sun shone in all its brightness most people went back indoors, in comfort of the shade of their slanted-roofed-houses. It was only in the evening that town came alive again.
This was a strange place, Palakkad. Its extremes of activity and inactivity seemed to be matched only by its extremes of temperatures. Without a hint, the afternoon heat quickly transformed into an evening chill.
When the sky was dark again, lights in the shops lit up. Suddenly there were people all around again.I meandered through some more lanes in the night and came back to the hotel late.
Early next morning I was on my way to Allapuzha or Aleppey. They call this place the Venice of the East. A six hour journey; and since my early morning wasn’t early enough, I reached Aleppey only at about 2 in the afternoon.
Back waters of Kerala are what tourists come here to see. There are two ways of doing that – staying in a resort by the side of the back waters and taking a boat to see the interiors. Alternately, just taking a house boat, and spending the night in the back waters. I chose the latter.After a bit of hard bargain – this doesn’t come cheap, it cost me two and a half thousand rupees – I was off to a nearby bank from where I would board my boat. Surprised faces greeted me, for it wasn’t often that somebody came here alone to stay on a houseboat.
The journey began well. It was already about four in the afternoon, and I had missed my lunch. So, I was only glad that food was served soon enough.As we moved on, I started to think if I had made the right choice – choosing the houseboat over a resort. The houseboat held its appeal in its wooden deck and the cane structure that covered the room. But, it wasn’t exactly luxurious. No lights for one. At least not the ones powered by electricity; there were some kerosene lanterns though. Then, the houseboat was not motorised – to be rowed all along. Perhaps it was a result of the hard bargain I had made – but the other way of looking at it was that this was to be a completely natural experience.
Yet, the murkiness of the water and all the weeds floating around disturbed me. I was reminded of my trip to Sunderbans a few years back. Vivid pictures of its green-blue waters and untouched beauty flashed in front of my eyes. And I felt that I was missing something. First few hours were spent in comparing the two, looking for that something exceptional. Something special. But as it happens with all things special in life, it could not be found until I stopped looking.
The sky was a little clouded. The air blew mildly. The palm groves across the waters looked black in the shadows of a setting sun. It was like a water-colour painting. Colours melting into each other ever so gently. Mist giving it the halo of a dream. I could hear the sound of oars splashing the waves, and the birds flying on their way home. And, when we passed by an island, there were children playing cricket, and girls all dressed up and going somewhere with the ladies. And, there was nothing around. The water and the boat and the islands, the trees on them, and the sky.
On the boat, I had with me three others – Babu and Shivdas, boatmen both. And Manoj, the chef.
Shivdas was about 50 years old. Grey hair betraying his age. He wore a light pink shirt, a green lungi and a white turban. And every bit of his cloth looked striking on his chocolate brown skin. Babu looked very similar too. Only, he had a more angelic smile, as his eyes shrank when his teeth showed.Both Babu and Shivdas were from nearby villages, and spoke only Malayalam. Manoj was the one who knew a little of both Hindi and English. He had worked in Bombay for a couple of years as an AC mechanic. He would get three thousand rupees a month there, but that wasn’t enough to meet his expenses. So, here he was, doing a job that gave him thirty rupees a day and tips from the tourists. Tips, I was made to believe, that were generous.
And, this did seem plausible. In this state of Kerala, God’s Own Country, there was little development beyond tourism. Most locals worked on farms, cultivating paddy and bananas and coconut, or they worked for tour operators. So, the wages were low. This, despite, or perhaps because of, a communist regime after every alternate election. But tourism did flourish here and tourists came from far and wide.
The sun was almost below the horizon when we reached in the middle of somewhere that was surrounded by water all around. It wasn’t a dark night even though clouds covered a half moon. Stars were missing. On the distant banks shone the lights in resorts, reflecting in the mirror of water underneath. There was silence all around. Only stray sounds of a motor boat passing by filtered through once in a while. November usually heralds winters, but air did not betray any signs of it. Mild breeze brought some comfort from humidity. And, the ripples it created swayed the boat in a rhythm. I lay on the deck, watching the clouds pass over the moon to allow an occasional glimpse. I loved the quiet and I loved the dim light of the lanterns that were lit now, but I hated my loneliness. And, I hated my mind for racing through so many thoughts.
I wondered about man. And I wondered about animals. And I wondered about life. And I wondered if animals are more blessed than men. Wondered if we are unhappy because we think so much; unable to just savour the moment the way life serves it. Wondered if there was a way that I could just stop thinking so much some day. And these thoughts kept me occupied till dinner was served on the deck. Keralite food turned out to be more delicious than I had expected. In fact, it was wonderful.
I lay on the deck till late in the night. Manoj saw the walkman I had and wanted to hear some songs. He sat by my side while Babu and Shivdas chatted away at the other end of the boat. Late in the night, I went into the boat-room, and tried to sleep there. Manoj had warned me about fishermen from nearby villages who came in the night to just see if they could pickup something. So, only one window of the boat could be kept open, and the night was spent battling the humidity and the mosquitoes. I hardly got any sleep. Each time I was in the middle of some dream, a mosquito would buzz in the ear.
But, mosquitoes did ensure that I was awake before dawn. I woke up a little tired and walked out on the deck. It was a lot chiller now. The clouds still covered the sky. I could not see the sun go up in the east. But the view around was beautiful. Serene. The freshness of the air, the rippling of the waves. It was all the same as it had been the evening before. And yet, it was different. My senses seemed to melt away into the beauty that surrounded me. Something inside told me that I was part of this creation, this beauty all around, and that what I saw was part of me too. Like the mosquitoes, all my disturbing thoughts had suddenly vanished.
For a while, I lay on the deck with eyes wide awake. And then, I didn’t even realise when sleep took over. Then, Manoj woke me for breakfast after a most refreshing nap I had had in a long time. It was about 8 in the morning and time to move on. Time to explore in greater depths the backwaters of Kerala.
As we moved further on, I saw some birds and saw some flowers. Flowers that I saw were mostly red. Crimson red. Some were hibiscus. And, there were greens all around. There were palm groves, and banana trees and paddy fields. And there were stray islands, small ones, dense with trees growing into each other, climbers hanging out into waters. There were small huts and villages nearby. There were fishermen in their boats with nets under the water, working for their daily catch. And, there were these small boats, Vallum. Thin and small, very similar to canoes. So thin that after one person sat in them, there was no space for anything else to fit in.
We moved on to the place where they repaired the boats. Somewhere deep inside those water alleys; it was actually like a cross-section of two water lanes. Just a shed of tin by the side of a smallish house. It was here that I finally found someone willing to lend their Vallum. As smiling faces greeted us, Manoj and I drifted into a Vallum. It was scary to start with. A slight shift in weight on either side, and we would both be in water. But, soon we just settled into the boat so well that we were one with the lake. We rowed in the water with the light wooden oars, as we waded through to the other end to buy a packet of match sticks. And, where I sat in the boat, it was below the water level. Just extend the hand a little and the hand was full of water. We waded through the water lilies and I plucked one there. This was the clearest water I had seen in the entire place yet; clear enough to be able to spot the small black fishes.
Half an hour of rowing left us tired, and yet it left me wanting for more. The lake seemed to allure me with its beauty. It screamed to me to tell me that I wanted more of it. That it wanted more of me. It urged me to take a plunge, to feel its water on my skin, to unravel its beauty, deep inside. The lake had a strange charm, mysterious and sublime; charm that I just could not resist it.
In those waters I swam like fish. I saw the pebbles at the bottom and the greens that grew on them. I saw the small black fishes float by me. And when I swam facing the sky, I saw the towering palms bowing to me; paying obeisance to the lake. I saw the clouds filter the light enough so that it would not hurt my eyes. And every splash that I made broke the silence, and yet it was the rhythm in which my soul danced.
This lake was what life was about. About getting deep inside, about taking what came on way, about absorbing the richness of the moment in its completeness. Like swimming, like flying, like dancing, like meditation. I had to dip myself in it. Surrender to it. Completely. And then, there were no boundaries, no limits.
When the body couldn’t take anymore, I was back on deck. Exhausted to the hilt. Lying on the polished wood, warmed with a now blazing sun. Eyelids battled exhaustion for a while, not willing to miss any glimpse of the beauty around, but sleep gently took over yet again.
A quiet nap later, we were travelling back towards the point where we had boarded from.
Soon, Manoj and Babu and Shivdas and the sky and the palm trees, the water lilies, the paddy fields, the dimly lit lanterns in the quiet of the night and the rippling, charming waters would all be part of memory; etched in a corner of my heart. And, I would be on a bus to Cochin; my skin a little more chocolate brown.
Wednesday, September 08, 2004
Rushing for a piece of peace
Tuesday, Aug 31, 2004
Time: 12:00 pm
Location: Marriage Registrar's Office, Koramangala, Bangalore
Deepika and I register our marriage. We are officially married now.
Now that we are married, shouldn't we be going for a honeymoon!
Tuesday through Friday
Been thinking about going somewhere over the weekend. Papa says I must take Deepika to Guruvayur on Krishna Janmashthami. Deepika is very keen on it too.
Options:
1. Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum - Ah, I love that place. Wouldn't it be lovely to take Deepika to Kovalam... those grey sands and green waters... just laze around like hippies...
2. Kodaikanal - Been there before. Had wished then that I hadn't gone there alone. Now I know who I wanted to go there with.
3. Munnar - Been told it's a lovely place too. Richa jiji can get the booking done in Sterling Resort.
4. Thekkady / Kumarakom
5. Wayanad - also know as the rain country. Told by Aparna (yes...Aparna Basu Mukherjee) that the resorts there are amazing... its all forest and streams and waterfalls...
Thursday is a dampener. Told Deepika today that we are not going to USA. Both of us are a little upset.
Friday morning, and yet to decide. Deepika asks me if we are going anywhere. "I don't know" is my reply. A little irritated with myself.
Friday, Sept 3Time: 4:00 pm
Location: My desk, Office
Boss hasn't come to the office. Have sent off a mail to him saying that I am inclined at being part of the project in USA. Maybe, we will discuss this on Tuesday.
What the heck! what am I doing over the weekend?
No answers yet!!
Time: 4:05pm
Location My desk, Office
Browsing through the internet to get the names of resorts in Wayanad. Shooting off mails to many of them enquiring about rates and availability on 4th and 5th Sept.
Time: 4:30pm
Location: Telephone booth, Office
Calling up resorts in Wayanad. Accommodation not available. What's available is too expensive. Wayanad seems ruled out.
Time: 4:45pm
Location: Travel desk, Office
Checking out if we can catch a bus to Kerala. Preferably to Kovalam. All buses are fully booked. Trains are fully booked too. Even, buses for Coimbatore not available.
Time: 5:00pm
Location: My desk, Office
Call up Deepika - Pack the bags. We are going somewhere. Keep it light.
Time: 6:00pm
Location: My desk, Office
Waiting for Boss to come in. Need to take him through a presentation. Also, need to tell him that I can't take the conference call at 10pm tonight.
Time: 6:15pm
Location: My desk, Office
Still waiting for Boss. It's getting late. Decide to just send in the presentation over email and leave.
Time: 7:00pm
Location: Travel agent, BTM Layout, about 30 minutes away from home
Battle through rush hour traffic. Reach an influential travel agent. Tell him I desperately want to reach Kerala...Trivandrum / Trissur / Palakkad / Cochin / Kollam... anyplace in Kerala would do!
Javed makes several calls. Finally...there is a bus from Madiwala at 8:00pm. Would have to sit in the driver's cabin, but can go.
Ah, but its 7:15 already. Cannot make it to Madiwala on time.
Time: 7:20pm
Location: Citibank ATM
Withdraw 4K.
Time: 8:00pm
Location: Home
Deepika is ready with the bag packed. We take out some unnecessary clothes to make the bag lighter still.
She has prepared Cup-o-Noodles. Ate half of it. Rest is for me.
Quickly eat and leave the house.
Time: 8:10pm
Location: HSBC Auto stand
Instructions to the auto-driver:
1. Take us to Kalasipalayam - the main bus stand - need to check if we can get any bus to Kerala.
2. If we don't get a bus there, rush to Majestic Railway station. There is a train to Trivandrum at 9:45pm.
Time: 8:45pm
Location: Kalasipalayam
Ask various travel agents for any bus to Kerala / Coimbatore.
No place at all.
Time: 8:55pm
Location: En route Majestic
Auto-driver suggests that Kerala State Transport Corporation may have some buses. Might try that instead, as even general bogie of the train would be full.
Ok.
Speeding off to the Majestic bus station now.
Time: 9:15pm
Location: KSRTC counter
Standing in the queue.
Auto driver stands by. Wants to make sure we get a bus. Would drop us to the railway station if we don't get a bus.
Yes, there is a bus for Trissur at 10:30pm. Super Deluxe Air bus (means it's quite decent). And yes, two tickets are available.
Hurray!!! We are going to Kerala.
Pay Rs. 600 for the tickets. Rs.100 to the auto-driver.
Thank the auto-driver and tip him. He was really helpful.
Time: 9:30pm
Location: Sanmar restaurant
Order two South Indian meals, a Coke, a Seven-Up.
Time: 10:00pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand
This is a dingy place. No light. And, it is raining copiously. The shed above is dripping. Somehow managing to keep ourselves dry.
Time: 10:15pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand
The bus has arrived. Looks ok.
Time: 10:40pm
Location: Inside the bus
Our journey has begun. Suddenly it dawns upon me that 4k (now only 3.3k) would not be enough for our Kerala trip. And, I don't know if Citibank has any ATMs in Kerala. If not, we will have no access to funds.
Ah...I know how to screw up things!!!!
Time: 11:00pm
Location: Somewhere in Bangalore
The driver has driven off the normal route. Not able to figure his way out now. I look out for signs.
This is Bannerghatta Road. That's the one on which I live.
I go to the driver and guide him to Hosur Road.
The driver and conductor are grateful. On way to Hosur Road is BTM Layout, and the same ATM from which I drew money earlier. Request the driver to stop there. He obliges.
Time: 11:15pm
Location: In the bus, Hosur Road
Speeding away to Kerala. 6k more in pocket.
Now we are well and truly on out way to Kerala.Thank God that the driver strayed, because I wasn't aware of any Citibank ATMs on the normal route.
__________________________________________________________________
What followed, of course, was even better than I had hoped.
Till we reached Trissur at 8 in the morning on Saturday, we weren't sure where we were going in next.
Checked out at the bus station, and came to know that Trivandrum (and thus Kovalam) was at least another 8 hours away. So, Kovalam was out.
The other option nearby was Alleppey.So, we hired a room for an hour, bathed and freshened up. Ate Masala Dosa and Onion Uttapam with a rather placid Sambar. And, we were on board again. This time a khatara KSRTC bus. One in which the windows either don't open or they don't close, but always creek. Trissur to Alleppey via Ernakulam.
At 3:00 pm, we were at Alleppey.
Now, as you come out of the Alleppey bus stand, you see a number of these Tourist Information Offices. Don't get fooled. They are nothing more than touts, trying to sell you packages for House-boats and lake resorts.
We were told that House-boats are available for Rs. 5000+ and rooms in Coir-Village Lake Resort for Rs. 2500+.
So, after much haggling, with the help of a boatman, we finally got a deal. Rs.2250 for the night in houseboat.
It was 4:00pm now. And the boat would start at 5pm.
Deepika and I walked through the Alleppey town a bit. Ate South Indian Kerala meals at Annapoorna Veg. Restaurant - essentially thick brown rice, sambar, vegetables, and hot brown water. I do not know what they mix in water, but like most things about Kerala, I love its food and water too.
Now, some of you are aware that I had been to Alleppey once before. Even then I had spent the night on a Houseboat. I will post that writing on my blog later. But, things haven't changed much.
There is something magical about Alleppey. Life moves in slow motion here. The tranquility of the lake, the gentle murmur of coconut leaves, the gurgling of ripples as a thin vallum (canoe) cuts through the water, the silent flight of migratory birds, the white and red and pink flowers, the butterflies floating in air...
So, Deepika and I spent the night in the house-boat, parked by a paddy field. And, we rowed through the silent lakes in a small vallum. And, we walked through the paddy fields, holding each other's hands. A silver sky overlooked us. It was almost like one of those Monet paintings.
And, as we rowed through the waters, we went to some of the lakeside resorts. One of them was Punnamada Resort. It had cottages built in traditional Keralite style - sloping roofs, and chocolate brown wood walls. The bathroom was an open bathroom, open from the top. But the rates here were too high for us (Rs. 3000, though I must insist that it's not too high for the luxury it accords).
We rowed through the lakes in the morning also, and found Malayalam Resort.
Malayalam Resort is right in front of the Nehru Trophy starting point and is owned by Thomas and his family. It has four rooms, including a hatched cottage right on the lake. In front of the cottage is a bathing ghat, and on both sides of the ghat are two protrusions on the lake. These protrusions, made of wood and painted yellow and red, have climbers growing on pillars, and a base on which lies a mat and pillow. And, just 10 meters from the bathing ghat is a skeletal bamboo structure, covered all around with green climbers with white flowers. This structure has a hammock tied to two pillars on either end that lilts with the mild breeze.
Thomas' family comprises his mother, his wife, Rosary, his younger son, Jeswin, and his elder son. Jeswin studies in 8th standard and the elder son is studying Nursing in Bangalore. Rosary is the chief-chef and cooks delicious Keralite food. Appams for Monday morning breakfast were absolutely delicious.
On Sunday evening, we went to Alleppey beach. It was quite a forgettable experience. We ended up walking over a kilometer to find an auto back to the hotel. And, then again, from the auto stand to the resort, we walked by the lake in pitch darkness.
_________________________________________________________________
On Monday morning, began our great journey back home. More adventurous than our journey while coming to Kerala.
Time: 9:30am
Location: Malayalam Lake Resort, Backwaters, Alleppey
Eating Appams for breakfast.
Hoping to catch a boat to the bus-stand jetty. No such luck.
Take an auto instead.
Time: 10:00am
Location: Phone booth, Alleppey Bus Stand
Calling up home finally to let the folks know that we exist.
Time: 10:15am
Location: KSRTC Bus to Cochin
No seat available. Will have to stand for next two hours.
Time: 12:30pm
Location: Cochin Bus stand
Will get a bus from Jetty Bus stand for Guruvayur. Decide to have lunch in the meanwhile at Woodlands Veg. Restaurant.
Kerala meals again.
Time: 1:30pm
Location: Another khatara bus to Guruvayur
Will be a three hour journey. At least we get place to sit.
Time: 4:30pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand
Temple Darshan are open. Guy at the phone booth tells us that we need to be dressed in a Dhoti and Sari respectively. Hire a Dhoti from the guy at phone booth. Change into Dhoti and Sari respectively in a facility by Sulabh.
Time: 4:45pm
Location: Guruvayur temple
Temple is not as crowded as we thought it would be. Five elephants decorated for the occasion marching back and forth to the beats of traditional drums. Lots of diyas are kept all around. Would be lit in the night.
Stand in a queue for Prasad coupons, stand in a queue for Darshan for half an hour, do the Darshan, and walk into a Sari shop.
Deepika buys Kerala style double Sari and I buy a Kerala style Dhoti. They are all off-white in color and have a golden border.
Time: 6:00pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand
Buy the only chips we get - Banana chips. Buy the latest copy of Outlook. Change into informals and return the Dhoti. Pay 10 bucks as rent.
No buses for Bangalore. Next bus for Trissur at 6:30pm.
Time: 7:00pm
Location: Bus to Trissur
Reading Outlook from cover to cover. Deepika is whispering a song to me. She wants me to play Antakshari, but the latest articles on Manmohan becoming more assertive and BJP believing some predictions about their coming back to power seems more interesting right now.
Time: 7:15pm
Location: Bus to Trissur
Can see "Ab mein gussa ho jaoongi" expression on Deepika's face. Quickly sing a song with "M", start the Antakshari and sink back into Outlook. Khushwant Singh is up with another silly book. Haven't read any of his books, but he seems too sensational for my taste.
Time: 7:55pm
Location: Trissur bus stand
Been told there is a KSRTC bus for Bangalore at 8pm. Debating whether to take the KSRTC bus or a private Volvo AC bus... The bus arrives and guess what... its full. Should have expected that.
Check out with private operators - all buses in the direction of Bangalore are full.
Eat our last Kerala meals at a joint next to bus stand.
Time: 8:15pm
Location: Trissur bus stand
Throw the Outlook magazine and the mineral water through the window in the bus to reserve seats.
Have made friends with Prakash and Saji - students both in Coimbatore. Prakash gets into the bus before us. Since has a huge built, if he can pass through, so would Deepika and I, even with the bag in out hand.
Would take about two hours.
Time: 9:55pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
Been told that there is a bus every minute from Palakkad to Coimbatore.
Only one bus standing for Coimbatore, and its fully packed. No place even to stand.
Time: 11pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
Still no signs of a bus to Coimbatore.
Many more like us waiting for the bus. All buses have names of destinations written only in Malayalam, but can guess that the bus is not going to Coimbatore as it hardly generates any excitement in the crowd.
Nah, even if a bus comes now, it won't accommodate so many of us. No way!
Time: 11:10pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
We and five others hire a taxi to Coimbatore. Would cost Rs. 75 per head.
Time: 12:30am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
No seats in buses for Bangalore available.
Option:
Take a bus to Salem - 3 hours
Take a bus from Salem to Bangalore - 5 hours
Wondering is staying the night in Coimbatore may be a better option.
Suddenly a middle aged man comes by and asks us to wait for a Bangalore bus. Might get a seat in one. The man is drunk, the smell is unmistakably of alcohol.
Also with is a student from Bangalore. He chats up this middle aged man.
Tells us: He is a vigilance officer, chat him up a little, he will help you.
Chat a little with the middle-aged man. He is truly drunk and in a mood to brag. Tells us that he is the nephew of TN Seshan.
The Bangalore student is taking tips from him on how to smuggle liquor bottles in.
Time: 12:45am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
A private bus for Bangalore comes by. It is full. Won't take us.
Time: 12:55am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
Another Bangalore bus arrives. KSRTC bus. This one is full too. Conductor refuses to take us.
The nice and nicely drunk vigilance officer steps into action. Tells the conductor about his credentials. Tells him that Deepika is his sister and she must go to Bangalore anyhow.
Conductor relents. Allows us to sit in driver's cabin.
The Bangalore student is gracious, allows us to go. He would take another bus.
Tuesday
Time: 8am
Location: Silk Board junction, Bangalore
Ah, Bangalore at last. Both of us haven't slept much. Back and neck are bruised.
Haggle again with auto-drivers. Won't give one-and-half the meter rate for going home. Walk 200 meters. Find an auto willing to take us home.
Time: 10am
Location: My desk, Office
Back in the office. Need to talk to my boss about the US project.
________________________________________________________________
Tried convincing my boss about sending me on the US project. All in vain. The organization needs me here for some other work.
Ah, that hurts.
But what the heck. May be Deepika and I would go to Kovalam beach on the next long weekend!
Time: 12:00 pm
Location: Marriage Registrar's Office, Koramangala, Bangalore
Deepika and I register our marriage. We are officially married now.
Now that we are married, shouldn't we be going for a honeymoon!
Tuesday through Friday
Been thinking about going somewhere over the weekend. Papa says I must take Deepika to Guruvayur on Krishna Janmashthami. Deepika is very keen on it too.
Options:
1. Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum - Ah, I love that place. Wouldn't it be lovely to take Deepika to Kovalam... those grey sands and green waters... just laze around like hippies...
2. Kodaikanal - Been there before. Had wished then that I hadn't gone there alone. Now I know who I wanted to go there with.
3. Munnar - Been told it's a lovely place too. Richa jiji can get the booking done in Sterling Resort.
4. Thekkady / Kumarakom
5. Wayanad - also know as the rain country. Told by Aparna (yes...Aparna Basu Mukherjee) that the resorts there are amazing... its all forest and streams and waterfalls...
Thursday is a dampener. Told Deepika today that we are not going to USA. Both of us are a little upset.
Friday morning, and yet to decide. Deepika asks me if we are going anywhere. "I don't know" is my reply. A little irritated with myself.
Friday, Sept 3Time: 4:00 pm
Location: My desk, Office
Boss hasn't come to the office. Have sent off a mail to him saying that I am inclined at being part of the project in USA. Maybe, we will discuss this on Tuesday.
What the heck! what am I doing over the weekend?
No answers yet!!
Time: 4:05pm
Location My desk, Office
Browsing through the internet to get the names of resorts in Wayanad. Shooting off mails to many of them enquiring about rates and availability on 4th and 5th Sept.
Time: 4:30pm
Location: Telephone booth, Office
Calling up resorts in Wayanad. Accommodation not available. What's available is too expensive. Wayanad seems ruled out.
Time: 4:45pm
Location: Travel desk, Office
Checking out if we can catch a bus to Kerala. Preferably to Kovalam. All buses are fully booked. Trains are fully booked too. Even, buses for Coimbatore not available.
Time: 5:00pm
Location: My desk, Office
Call up Deepika - Pack the bags. We are going somewhere. Keep it light.
Time: 6:00pm
Location: My desk, Office
Waiting for Boss to come in. Need to take him through a presentation. Also, need to tell him that I can't take the conference call at 10pm tonight.
Time: 6:15pm
Location: My desk, Office
Still waiting for Boss. It's getting late. Decide to just send in the presentation over email and leave.
Time: 7:00pm
Location: Travel agent, BTM Layout, about 30 minutes away from home
Battle through rush hour traffic. Reach an influential travel agent. Tell him I desperately want to reach Kerala...Trivandrum / Trissur / Palakkad / Cochin / Kollam... anyplace in Kerala would do!
Javed makes several calls. Finally...there is a bus from Madiwala at 8:00pm. Would have to sit in the driver's cabin, but can go.
Ah, but its 7:15 already. Cannot make it to Madiwala on time.
Time: 7:20pm
Location: Citibank ATM
Withdraw 4K.
Time: 8:00pm
Location: Home
Deepika is ready with the bag packed. We take out some unnecessary clothes to make the bag lighter still.
She has prepared Cup-o-Noodles. Ate half of it. Rest is for me.
Quickly eat and leave the house.
Time: 8:10pm
Location: HSBC Auto stand
Instructions to the auto-driver:
1. Take us to Kalasipalayam - the main bus stand - need to check if we can get any bus to Kerala.
2. If we don't get a bus there, rush to Majestic Railway station. There is a train to Trivandrum at 9:45pm.
Time: 8:45pm
Location: Kalasipalayam
Ask various travel agents for any bus to Kerala / Coimbatore.
No place at all.
Time: 8:55pm
Location: En route Majestic
Auto-driver suggests that Kerala State Transport Corporation may have some buses. Might try that instead, as even general bogie of the train would be full.
Ok.
Speeding off to the Majestic bus station now.
Time: 9:15pm
Location: KSRTC counter
Standing in the queue.
Auto driver stands by. Wants to make sure we get a bus. Would drop us to the railway station if we don't get a bus.
Yes, there is a bus for Trissur at 10:30pm. Super Deluxe Air bus (means it's quite decent). And yes, two tickets are available.
Hurray!!! We are going to Kerala.
Pay Rs. 600 for the tickets. Rs.100 to the auto-driver.
Thank the auto-driver and tip him. He was really helpful.
Time: 9:30pm
Location: Sanmar restaurant
Order two South Indian meals, a Coke, a Seven-Up.
Time: 10:00pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand
This is a dingy place. No light. And, it is raining copiously. The shed above is dripping. Somehow managing to keep ourselves dry.
Time: 10:15pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand
The bus has arrived. Looks ok.
Time: 10:40pm
Location: Inside the bus
Our journey has begun. Suddenly it dawns upon me that 4k (now only 3.3k) would not be enough for our Kerala trip. And, I don't know if Citibank has any ATMs in Kerala. If not, we will have no access to funds.
Ah...I know how to screw up things!!!!
Time: 11:00pm
Location: Somewhere in Bangalore
The driver has driven off the normal route. Not able to figure his way out now. I look out for signs.
This is Bannerghatta Road. That's the one on which I live.
I go to the driver and guide him to Hosur Road.
The driver and conductor are grateful. On way to Hosur Road is BTM Layout, and the same ATM from which I drew money earlier. Request the driver to stop there. He obliges.
Time: 11:15pm
Location: In the bus, Hosur Road
Speeding away to Kerala. 6k more in pocket.
Now we are well and truly on out way to Kerala.Thank God that the driver strayed, because I wasn't aware of any Citibank ATMs on the normal route.
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What followed, of course, was even better than I had hoped.
Till we reached Trissur at 8 in the morning on Saturday, we weren't sure where we were going in next.
Checked out at the bus station, and came to know that Trivandrum (and thus Kovalam) was at least another 8 hours away. So, Kovalam was out.
The other option nearby was Alleppey.So, we hired a room for an hour, bathed and freshened up. Ate Masala Dosa and Onion Uttapam with a rather placid Sambar. And, we were on board again. This time a khatara KSRTC bus. One in which the windows either don't open or they don't close, but always creek. Trissur to Alleppey via Ernakulam.
At 3:00 pm, we were at Alleppey.
Now, as you come out of the Alleppey bus stand, you see a number of these Tourist Information Offices. Don't get fooled. They are nothing more than touts, trying to sell you packages for House-boats and lake resorts.
We were told that House-boats are available for Rs. 5000+ and rooms in Coir-Village Lake Resort for Rs. 2500+.
So, after much haggling, with the help of a boatman, we finally got a deal. Rs.2250 for the night in houseboat.
It was 4:00pm now. And the boat would start at 5pm.
Deepika and I walked through the Alleppey town a bit. Ate South Indian Kerala meals at Annapoorna Veg. Restaurant - essentially thick brown rice, sambar, vegetables, and hot brown water. I do not know what they mix in water, but like most things about Kerala, I love its food and water too.
Now, some of you are aware that I had been to Alleppey once before. Even then I had spent the night on a Houseboat. I will post that writing on my blog later. But, things haven't changed much.
There is something magical about Alleppey. Life moves in slow motion here. The tranquility of the lake, the gentle murmur of coconut leaves, the gurgling of ripples as a thin vallum (canoe) cuts through the water, the silent flight of migratory birds, the white and red and pink flowers, the butterflies floating in air...
So, Deepika and I spent the night in the house-boat, parked by a paddy field. And, we rowed through the silent lakes in a small vallum. And, we walked through the paddy fields, holding each other's hands. A silver sky overlooked us. It was almost like one of those Monet paintings.
And, as we rowed through the waters, we went to some of the lakeside resorts. One of them was Punnamada Resort. It had cottages built in traditional Keralite style - sloping roofs, and chocolate brown wood walls. The bathroom was an open bathroom, open from the top. But the rates here were too high for us (Rs. 3000, though I must insist that it's not too high for the luxury it accords).
We rowed through the lakes in the morning also, and found Malayalam Resort.
Malayalam Resort is right in front of the Nehru Trophy starting point and is owned by Thomas and his family. It has four rooms, including a hatched cottage right on the lake. In front of the cottage is a bathing ghat, and on both sides of the ghat are two protrusions on the lake. These protrusions, made of wood and painted yellow and red, have climbers growing on pillars, and a base on which lies a mat and pillow. And, just 10 meters from the bathing ghat is a skeletal bamboo structure, covered all around with green climbers with white flowers. This structure has a hammock tied to two pillars on either end that lilts with the mild breeze.
Thomas' family comprises his mother, his wife, Rosary, his younger son, Jeswin, and his elder son. Jeswin studies in 8th standard and the elder son is studying Nursing in Bangalore. Rosary is the chief-chef and cooks delicious Keralite food. Appams for Monday morning breakfast were absolutely delicious.
On Sunday evening, we went to Alleppey beach. It was quite a forgettable experience. We ended up walking over a kilometer to find an auto back to the hotel. And, then again, from the auto stand to the resort, we walked by the lake in pitch darkness.
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On Monday morning, began our great journey back home. More adventurous than our journey while coming to Kerala.
Time: 9:30am
Location: Malayalam Lake Resort, Backwaters, Alleppey
Eating Appams for breakfast.
Hoping to catch a boat to the bus-stand jetty. No such luck.
Take an auto instead.
Time: 10:00am
Location: Phone booth, Alleppey Bus Stand
Calling up home finally to let the folks know that we exist.
Time: 10:15am
Location: KSRTC Bus to Cochin
No seat available. Will have to stand for next two hours.
Time: 12:30pm
Location: Cochin Bus stand
Will get a bus from Jetty Bus stand for Guruvayur. Decide to have lunch in the meanwhile at Woodlands Veg. Restaurant.
Kerala meals again.
Time: 1:30pm
Location: Another khatara bus to Guruvayur
Will be a three hour journey. At least we get place to sit.
Time: 4:30pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand
Temple Darshan are open. Guy at the phone booth tells us that we need to be dressed in a Dhoti and Sari respectively. Hire a Dhoti from the guy at phone booth. Change into Dhoti and Sari respectively in a facility by Sulabh.
Time: 4:45pm
Location: Guruvayur temple
Temple is not as crowded as we thought it would be. Five elephants decorated for the occasion marching back and forth to the beats of traditional drums. Lots of diyas are kept all around. Would be lit in the night.
Stand in a queue for Prasad coupons, stand in a queue for Darshan for half an hour, do the Darshan, and walk into a Sari shop.
Deepika buys Kerala style double Sari and I buy a Kerala style Dhoti. They are all off-white in color and have a golden border.
Time: 6:00pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand
Buy the only chips we get - Banana chips. Buy the latest copy of Outlook. Change into informals and return the Dhoti. Pay 10 bucks as rent.
No buses for Bangalore. Next bus for Trissur at 6:30pm.
Time: 7:00pm
Location: Bus to Trissur
Reading Outlook from cover to cover. Deepika is whispering a song to me. She wants me to play Antakshari, but the latest articles on Manmohan becoming more assertive and BJP believing some predictions about their coming back to power seems more interesting right now.
Time: 7:15pm
Location: Bus to Trissur
Can see "Ab mein gussa ho jaoongi" expression on Deepika's face. Quickly sing a song with "M", start the Antakshari and sink back into Outlook. Khushwant Singh is up with another silly book. Haven't read any of his books, but he seems too sensational for my taste.
Time: 7:55pm
Location: Trissur bus stand
Been told there is a KSRTC bus for Bangalore at 8pm. Debating whether to take the KSRTC bus or a private Volvo AC bus... The bus arrives and guess what... its full. Should have expected that.
Check out with private operators - all buses in the direction of Bangalore are full.
Eat our last Kerala meals at a joint next to bus stand.
Time: 8:15pm
Location: Trissur bus stand
Throw the Outlook magazine and the mineral water through the window in the bus to reserve seats.
Have made friends with Prakash and Saji - students both in Coimbatore. Prakash gets into the bus before us. Since has a huge built, if he can pass through, so would Deepika and I, even with the bag in out hand.
Would take about two hours.
Time: 9:55pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
Been told that there is a bus every minute from Palakkad to Coimbatore.
Only one bus standing for Coimbatore, and its fully packed. No place even to stand.
Time: 11pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
Still no signs of a bus to Coimbatore.
Many more like us waiting for the bus. All buses have names of destinations written only in Malayalam, but can guess that the bus is not going to Coimbatore as it hardly generates any excitement in the crowd.
Nah, even if a bus comes now, it won't accommodate so many of us. No way!
Time: 11:10pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand
We and five others hire a taxi to Coimbatore. Would cost Rs. 75 per head.
Time: 12:30am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
No seats in buses for Bangalore available.
Option:
Take a bus to Salem - 3 hours
Take a bus from Salem to Bangalore - 5 hours
Wondering is staying the night in Coimbatore may be a better option.
Suddenly a middle aged man comes by and asks us to wait for a Bangalore bus. Might get a seat in one. The man is drunk, the smell is unmistakably of alcohol.
Also with is a student from Bangalore. He chats up this middle aged man.
Tells us: He is a vigilance officer, chat him up a little, he will help you.
Chat a little with the middle-aged man. He is truly drunk and in a mood to brag. Tells us that he is the nephew of TN Seshan.
The Bangalore student is taking tips from him on how to smuggle liquor bottles in.
Time: 12:45am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
A private bus for Bangalore comes by. It is full. Won't take us.
Time: 12:55am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand
Another Bangalore bus arrives. KSRTC bus. This one is full too. Conductor refuses to take us.
The nice and nicely drunk vigilance officer steps into action. Tells the conductor about his credentials. Tells him that Deepika is his sister and she must go to Bangalore anyhow.
Conductor relents. Allows us to sit in driver's cabin.
The Bangalore student is gracious, allows us to go. He would take another bus.
Tuesday
Time: 8am
Location: Silk Board junction, Bangalore
Ah, Bangalore at last. Both of us haven't slept much. Back and neck are bruised.
Haggle again with auto-drivers. Won't give one-and-half the meter rate for going home. Walk 200 meters. Find an auto willing to take us home.
Time: 10am
Location: My desk, Office
Back in the office. Need to talk to my boss about the US project.
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Tried convincing my boss about sending me on the US project. All in vain. The organization needs me here for some other work.
Ah, that hurts.
But what the heck. May be Deepika and I would go to Kovalam beach on the next long weekend!
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