Rushing for a piece of peace

Tuesday, Aug 31, 2004

Time: 12:00 pm
Location: Marriage Registrar's Office, Koramangala, Bangalore

Deepika and I register our marriage. We are officially married now.

Now that we are married, shouldn't we be going for a honeymoon!


Tuesday through Friday

Been thinking about going somewhere over the weekend. Papa says I must take Deepika to Guruvayur on Krishna Janmashthami. Deepika is very keen on it too.

Options:

1. Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum - Ah, I love that place. Wouldn't it be lovely to take Deepika to Kovalam... those grey sands and green waters... just laze around like hippies...
2. Kodaikanal - Been there before. Had wished then that I hadn't gone there alone. Now I know who I wanted to go there with.
3. Munnar - Been told it's a lovely place too. Richa jiji can get the booking done in Sterling Resort.
4. Thekkady / Kumarakom
5. Wayanad - also know as the rain country. Told by Aparna (yes...Aparna Basu Mukherjee) that the resorts there are amazing... its all forest and streams and waterfalls...

Thursday is a dampener. Told Deepika today that we are not going to USA. Both of us are a little upset.

Friday morning, and yet to decide. Deepika asks me if we are going anywhere. "I don't know" is my reply. A little irritated with myself.


Friday, Sept 3Time: 4:00 pm
Location: My desk, Office

Boss hasn't come to the office. Have sent off a mail to him saying that I am inclined at being part of the project in USA. Maybe, we will discuss this on Tuesday.

What the heck! what am I doing over the weekend?

No answers yet!!


Time: 4:05pm
Location My desk, Office

Browsing through the internet to get the names of resorts in Wayanad. Shooting off mails to many of them enquiring about rates and availability on 4th and 5th Sept.


Time: 4:30pm
Location: Telephone booth, Office

Calling up resorts in Wayanad. Accommodation not available. What's available is too expensive. Wayanad seems ruled out.


Time: 4:45pm
Location: Travel desk, Office

Checking out if we can catch a bus to Kerala. Preferably to Kovalam. All buses are fully booked. Trains are fully booked too. Even, buses for Coimbatore not available.


Time: 5:00pm
Location: My desk, Office

Call up Deepika - Pack the bags. We are going somewhere. Keep it light.


Time: 6:00pm
Location: My desk, Office

Waiting for Boss to come in. Need to take him through a presentation. Also, need to tell him that I can't take the conference call at 10pm tonight.


Time: 6:15pm
Location: My desk, Office

Still waiting for Boss. It's getting late. Decide to just send in the presentation over email and leave.


Time: 7:00pm
Location: Travel agent, BTM Layout, about 30 minutes away from home

Battle through rush hour traffic. Reach an influential travel agent. Tell him I desperately want to reach Kerala...Trivandrum / Trissur / Palakkad / Cochin / Kollam... anyplace in Kerala would do!

Javed makes several calls. Finally...there is a bus from Madiwala at 8:00pm. Would have to sit in the driver's cabin, but can go.

Ah, but its 7:15 already. Cannot make it to Madiwala on time.


Time: 7:20pm
Location: Citibank ATM

Withdraw 4K.


Time: 8:00pm
Location: Home

Deepika is ready with the bag packed. We take out some unnecessary clothes to make the bag lighter still.

She has prepared Cup-o-Noodles. Ate half of it. Rest is for me.

Quickly eat and leave the house.


Time: 8:10pm
Location: HSBC Auto stand

Instructions to the auto-driver:
1. Take us to Kalasipalayam - the main bus stand - need to check if we can get any bus to Kerala.
2. If we don't get a bus there, rush to Majestic Railway station. There is a train to Trivandrum at 9:45pm.


Time: 8:45pm
Location: Kalasipalayam

Ask various travel agents for any bus to Kerala / Coimbatore.

No place at all.


Time: 8:55pm
Location: En route Majestic

Auto-driver suggests that Kerala State Transport Corporation may have some buses. Might try that instead, as even general bogie of the train would be full.

Ok.

Speeding off to the Majestic bus station now.


Time: 9:15pm
Location: KSRTC counter

Standing in the queue.

Auto driver stands by. Wants to make sure we get a bus. Would drop us to the railway station if we don't get a bus.

Yes, there is a bus for Trissur at 10:30pm. Super Deluxe Air bus (means it's quite decent). And yes, two tickets are available.

Hurray!!! We are going to Kerala.

Pay Rs. 600 for the tickets. Rs.100 to the auto-driver.

Thank the auto-driver and tip him. He was really helpful.


Time: 9:30pm
Location: Sanmar restaurant

Order two South Indian meals, a Coke, a Seven-Up.


Time: 10:00pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand

This is a dingy place. No light. And, it is raining copiously. The shed above is dripping. Somehow managing to keep ourselves dry.


Time: 10:15pm
Location: Platform 14B, KSRTC bus stand

The bus has arrived. Looks ok.


Time: 10:40pm
Location: Inside the bus

Our journey has begun. Suddenly it dawns upon me that 4k (now only 3.3k) would not be enough for our Kerala trip. And, I don't know if Citibank has any ATMs in Kerala. If not, we will have no access to funds.

Ah...I know how to screw up things!!!!


Time: 11:00pm
Location: Somewhere in Bangalore

The driver has driven off the normal route. Not able to figure his way out now. I look out for signs.

This is Bannerghatta Road. That's the one on which I live.

I go to the driver and guide him to Hosur Road.

The driver and conductor are grateful. On way to Hosur Road is BTM Layout, and the same ATM from which I drew money earlier. Request the driver to stop there. He obliges.


Time: 11:15pm
Location: In the bus, Hosur Road

Speeding away to Kerala. 6k more in pocket.

Now we are well and truly on out way to Kerala.Thank God that the driver strayed, because I wasn't aware of any Citibank ATMs on the normal route.
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What followed, of course, was even better than I had hoped.

Till we reached Trissur at 8 in the morning on Saturday, we weren't sure where we were going in next.

Checked out at the bus station, and came to know that Trivandrum (and thus Kovalam) was at least another 8 hours away. So, Kovalam was out.

The other option nearby was Alleppey.So, we hired a room for an hour, bathed and freshened up. Ate Masala Dosa and Onion Uttapam with a rather placid Sambar. And, we were on board again. This time a khatara KSRTC bus. One in which the windows either don't open or they don't close, but always creek. Trissur to Alleppey via Ernakulam.

At 3:00 pm, we were at Alleppey.

Now, as you come out of the Alleppey bus stand, you see a number of these Tourist Information Offices. Don't get fooled. They are nothing more than touts, trying to sell you packages for House-boats and lake resorts.

We were told that House-boats are available for Rs. 5000+ and rooms in Coir-Village Lake Resort for Rs. 2500+.

So, after much haggling, with the help of a boatman, we finally got a deal. Rs.2250 for the night in houseboat.

It was 4:00pm now. And the boat would start at 5pm.

Deepika and I walked through the Alleppey town a bit. Ate South Indian Kerala meals at Annapoorna Veg. Restaurant - essentially thick brown rice, sambar, vegetables, and hot brown water. I do not know what they mix in water, but like most things about Kerala, I love its food and water too.

Now, some of you are aware that I had been to Alleppey once before. Even then I had spent the night on a Houseboat. I will post that writing on my blog later. But, things haven't changed much.

There is something magical about Alleppey. Life moves in slow motion here. The tranquility of the lake, the gentle murmur of coconut leaves, the gurgling of ripples as a thin vallum (canoe) cuts through the water, the silent flight of migratory birds, the white and red and pink flowers, the butterflies floating in air...

So, Deepika and I spent the night in the house-boat, parked by a paddy field. And, we rowed through the silent lakes in a small vallum. And, we walked through the paddy fields, holding each other's hands. A silver sky overlooked us. It was almost like one of those Monet paintings.

And, as we rowed through the waters, we went to some of the lakeside resorts. One of them was Punnamada Resort. It had cottages built in traditional Keralite style - sloping roofs, and chocolate brown wood walls. The bathroom was an open bathroom, open from the top. But the rates here were too high for us (Rs. 3000, though I must insist that it's not too high for the luxury it accords).

We rowed through the lakes in the morning also, and found Malayalam Resort.

Malayalam Resort is right in front of the Nehru Trophy starting point and is owned by Thomas and his family. It has four rooms, including a hatched cottage right on the lake. In front of the cottage is a bathing ghat, and on both sides of the ghat are two protrusions on the lake. These protrusions, made of wood and painted yellow and red, have climbers growing on pillars, and a base on which lies a mat and pillow. And, just 10 meters from the bathing ghat is a skeletal bamboo structure, covered all around with green climbers with white flowers. This structure has a hammock tied to two pillars on either end that lilts with the mild breeze.

Thomas' family comprises his mother, his wife, Rosary, his younger son, Jeswin, and his elder son. Jeswin studies in 8th standard and the elder son is studying Nursing in Bangalore. Rosary is the chief-chef and cooks delicious Keralite food. Appams for Monday morning breakfast were absolutely delicious.

On Sunday evening, we went to Alleppey beach. It was quite a forgettable experience. We ended up walking over a kilometer to find an auto back to the hotel. And, then again, from the auto stand to the resort, we walked by the lake in pitch darkness.

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On Monday morning, began our great journey back home. More adventurous than our journey while coming to Kerala.


Time: 9:30am
Location: Malayalam Lake Resort, Backwaters, Alleppey

Eating Appams for breakfast.

Hoping to catch a boat to the bus-stand jetty. No such luck.

Take an auto instead.


Time: 10:00am
Location: Phone booth, Alleppey Bus Stand

Calling up home finally to let the folks know that we exist.


Time: 10:15am
Location: KSRTC Bus to Cochin

No seat available. Will have to stand for next two hours.


Time: 12:30pm
Location: Cochin Bus stand

Will get a bus from Jetty Bus stand for Guruvayur. Decide to have lunch in the meanwhile at Woodlands Veg. Restaurant.

Kerala meals again.


Time: 1:30pm
Location: Another khatara bus to Guruvayur

Will be a three hour journey. At least we get place to sit.


Time: 4:30pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand

Temple Darshan are open. Guy at the phone booth tells us that we need to be dressed in a Dhoti and Sari respectively. Hire a Dhoti from the guy at phone booth. Change into Dhoti and Sari respectively in a facility by Sulabh.


Time: 4:45pm
Location: Guruvayur temple

Temple is not as crowded as we thought it would be. Five elephants decorated for the occasion marching back and forth to the beats of traditional drums. Lots of diyas are kept all around. Would be lit in the night.

Stand in a queue for Prasad coupons, stand in a queue for Darshan for half an hour, do the Darshan, and walk into a Sari shop.

Deepika buys Kerala style double Sari and I buy a Kerala style Dhoti. They are all off-white in color and have a golden border.


Time: 6:00pm
Location: Guruvayur bus stand

Buy the only chips we get - Banana chips. Buy the latest copy of Outlook. Change into informals and return the Dhoti. Pay 10 bucks as rent.

No buses for Bangalore. Next bus for Trissur at 6:30pm.


Time: 7:00pm
Location: Bus to Trissur

Reading Outlook from cover to cover. Deepika is whispering a song to me. She wants me to play Antakshari, but the latest articles on Manmohan becoming more assertive and BJP believing some predictions about their coming back to power seems more interesting right now.


Time: 7:15pm
Location: Bus to Trissur

Can see "Ab mein gussa ho jaoongi" expression on Deepika's face. Quickly sing a song with "M", start the Antakshari and sink back into Outlook. Khushwant Singh is up with another silly book. Haven't read any of his books, but he seems too sensational for my taste.


Time: 7:55pm
Location: Trissur bus stand

Been told there is a KSRTC bus for Bangalore at 8pm. Debating whether to take the KSRTC bus or a private Volvo AC bus... The bus arrives and guess what... its full. Should have expected that.

Check out with private operators - all buses in the direction of Bangalore are full.

Eat our last Kerala meals at a joint next to bus stand.


Time: 8:15pm
Location: Trissur bus stand

Throw the Outlook magazine and the mineral water through the window in the bus to reserve seats.

Have made friends with Prakash and Saji - students both in Coimbatore. Prakash gets into the bus before us. Since has a huge built, if he can pass through, so would Deepika and I, even with the bag in out hand.

Would take about two hours.


Time: 9:55pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand

Been told that there is a bus every minute from Palakkad to Coimbatore.

Only one bus standing for Coimbatore, and its fully packed. No place even to stand.


Time: 11pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand

Still no signs of a bus to Coimbatore.

Many more like us waiting for the bus. All buses have names of destinations written only in Malayalam, but can guess that the bus is not going to Coimbatore as it hardly generates any excitement in the crowd.

Nah, even if a bus comes now, it won't accommodate so many of us. No way!


Time: 11:10pm
Location: Palakkad bus stand

We and five others hire a taxi to Coimbatore. Would cost Rs. 75 per head.


Time: 12:30am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand

No seats in buses for Bangalore available.

Option:
Take a bus to Salem - 3 hours
Take a bus from Salem to Bangalore - 5 hours

Wondering is staying the night in Coimbatore may be a better option.

Suddenly a middle aged man comes by and asks us to wait for a Bangalore bus. Might get a seat in one. The man is drunk, the smell is unmistakably of alcohol.

Also with is a student from Bangalore. He chats up this middle aged man.

Tells us: He is a vigilance officer, chat him up a little, he will help you.

Chat a little with the middle-aged man. He is truly drunk and in a mood to brag. Tells us that he is the nephew of TN Seshan.

The Bangalore student is taking tips from him on how to smuggle liquor bottles in.


Time: 12:45am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand

A private bus for Bangalore comes by. It is full. Won't take us.


Time: 12:55am
Location: Coimbatore bus stand

Another Bangalore bus arrives. KSRTC bus. This one is full too. Conductor refuses to take us.

The nice and nicely drunk vigilance officer steps into action. Tells the conductor about his credentials. Tells him that Deepika is his sister and she must go to Bangalore anyhow.

Conductor relents. Allows us to sit in driver's cabin.

The Bangalore student is gracious, allows us to go. He would take another bus.

Tuesday
Time: 8am
Location: Silk Board junction, Bangalore

Ah, Bangalore at last. Both of us haven't slept much. Back and neck are bruised.

Haggle again with auto-drivers. Won't give one-and-half the meter rate for going home. Walk 200 meters. Find an auto willing to take us home.


Time: 10am
Location: My desk, Office

Back in the office. Need to talk to my boss about the US project.

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Tried convincing my boss about sending me on the US project. All in vain. The organization needs me here for some other work.

Ah, that hurts.

But what the heck. May be Deepika and I would go to Kovalam beach on the next long weekend!